21 Frost-Tolerant Crops for Late Winter Planting

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Like all gardeners, I’m itching to get started—even though my garden is buried under 10 inches of snow, that doesn’t look like it’s going anywhere anytime soon. But I know the growing season is right around the corner, and as soon as I can get into that soil, I’ll be planting all my favorite frost-tolerant crops.

Late winter planting is the first step to a productive garden. While many warm-weather crops can’t go in the ground until after the last frost, plenty of cold-hardy vegetables, herbs, and legumes thrive in chilly soil and can handle unpredictable late-season frosts. These crops don’t just survive—they flourish in cool temperatures, giving you an earlier start on your harvest.

This guide covers 21 frost-tolerant crops you can plant as soon as the soil is workable and offers tips for getting the most out of early planting in a cold climate.

Why Plant in Late Winter? The Benefits of an Early Start

Getting crops in the ground as early as possible—when the soil is thawed and workable—is a considerable advantage, especially for those of us in short-season growing zones. Here’s why:

  • Maximize Your Growing Season – Cold-hardy crops will thrive in cold weather, giving you a head start on planting.
  • Multiple Harvests – Sowing in late winter means you can harvest sooner and replant for summer.
  • Take Advantage of Frost – Some vegetables, like kale and parsnips, taste better after a frost, developing sweeter flavors.
  • Less Pest Pressure – Early planting means fewer pests since many common garden nuisances (like aphids and cabbage worms) don’t emerge until spring.
  • Natural Rain & Moisture– Spring’s— cooler temperatures and higher rainfall help seeds germinate without much watering, making it easier to start your garden.

Now that you know the benefits of planting in late winter, let’s dive into the best crops. Below are 21 frost-tolerant crops from vegetables, herbs, and legumes that you can plant as soon as your soil is workable—along with tips for growing them successfully in cool conditions.

Root Vegetables (Cold-Tolerant & Slow-Growing)

(Best direct-seeded, as they don’t transplant well.)

1. Parsnips

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 120+ days

Growing Tips:

  • Soak seeds overnight before planting to improve germination.
  • Sow in deep, loose soil to prevent forked roots.
  • Be patient—parsnip seeds can germinate in cool soil for up to 3 weeks.

Pro Tip: Mark the row with radish seeds—they germinate quickly and help you remember where you planted the slow-sprouting parsnips!

Freshly harvested Parsnips.  The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

2. Beets

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 45-60 days

Growing Tips:

  • Soak seeds in warm water for an hour before planting to speed germination.
  • Thin seedlings early—crowded beets won’t form proper roots.
  • Cover with row fabric to protect seedlings from late-season frosts.

Pro Tip: Harvest young beet greens for salads while the roots mature!


3. Turnips

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 40-55 days

Growing Tips:

  • Plant in well-draining soil—turnips don’t like wet feet.
  • Harvest small turnips for tender, sweet flavor.
  • Keep them well-watered for the best texture and taste.

Pro Tip: Avoid over-fertilizing—too much nitrogen results in lush greens but tiny roots.

Purple turnips planted in late winter and harvested in early summer against a bright white background. The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

4. Radishes

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 21-30 days

Growing Tips:

  • Plant radishes every 2 weeks for a continuous harvest.
  • Thin seedlings to avoid overcrowding, which leads to misshapen roots.
  • Keep soil moist but not soggy for crisp, mild radishes.

Pro Tip: If your radishes grow many greens but no roots, they’re too crowded—thin them early!

Bright red radishes resting on a bright white table top. The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

5. Salsify

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 120+ days

Growing Tips:

  • Prefers deep, loose soil—use a raised bed if needed.
  • Keep soil moist during germination, which can take up to 3 weeks.
  • Harvest after frost for the best flavor.

Pro Tip: Leave salsify in the ground over winter—it gets even sweeter!

Salsify against a bright white table.

Leafy Greens (Hardy & Early Harvest)

6. Spinach

  • Start Method: Direct-seed or Transplant
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 3-4 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 35-50 days

Growing Tips:

  • Sow spinach seeds directly in the ground or transplant sturdy seedlings.
  • Harvest outer leaves first to encourage regrowth.
  • Plant in full sun for the best yields.

Pro Tip: Use row covers to protect spinach from unexpected deep freezes—it keeps growing even in light snow!

A healthy head of spinach.  The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

7. Kale

  • Start Method: Transplant preferred, but can be direct-seeded
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 4-6 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 50-65 days

Growing Tips:

  • Start transplants indoors or directly seed in loose soil.
  • Harvest outer leaves first—kale will keep producing throughout the season.
  • Mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Pro Tip: Baby kale leaves are delicious in salads—harvest early for a tender bite!

A picked head of fresh kale. The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

8. Swiss Chard

  • Start Method: Transplant preferred, but can be direct-seeded
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 4-5 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 50-60 days

Growing Tips:

  • Transplant hardened-off seedlings for the fastest start.
  • Keep soil evenly moist to prevent bitter leaves.
  • Cut outer leaves regularly to encourage regrowth.

Pro Tip: Swiss chard survives mild winters, and some plants resprout in early spring!

Rainbow chard on a tabe. The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

9. Lettuce

  • Start Method: Direct-seed or Transplant
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 3-4 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 40-55 days

Growing Tips:

  • Choose cold-resistant varieties like ‘Winter Density’ or ‘Red Romaine.’
  • Sow every 2 weeks for continuous harvests.
  • Provide afternoon shade once temperatures rise.

Pro Tip: If a hard freeze is coming, cover lettuce with floating row covers for protection!

A healthy head of garden grown lettuce.

10. Mustard Greens

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 30-50 days

Growing Tips:

  • Direct-seed in the soil—mustard greens don’t transplant well.
  • Keep plants well-watered for the best texture.
  • Harvest young leaves for a milder flavor.

Pro Tip: Mix mustard greens with spinach or lettuce for a balanced, slightly spicy salad mix!

Mustard greens against a brght white tabletop The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

11. Mâche (Corn Salad)

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 40-50 days

Growing Tips:

  • Direct-seed as soon as the soil is workable.
  • Prefers partial shade in warmer climates.
  • Harvest by cutting whole rosettes or picking outer leaves.

Pro Tip: Mâche self-seeds easily—let a few plants go to seed for next year’s harvest!

Freshly picked Mache with bright green leaves.

Alliums (frost-tolerant crops for an Early start)

12. Onions (Sets or Seedlings)

  • Start Method: Transplant or Sets
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 8-10 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 100-120 days

Growing Tips:

  • Plant onion sets or hardened-off seedlings as soon as the soil is workable.
  • Keep soil consistently moist, especially in early growth.
  • Mulch well to suppress weeds and retain moisture.

Pro Tip: Choose day-length-appropriate onion varieties for your region—long-day onions for northern zones and short-day onions for southern zones.

Ruby red onions on a white tabletop.

13. Garlic (Spring-Planted)

  • Start Method: Plant cloves directly in the soil
  • Growing Time: 120+ days

Growing Tips:

  • Separate individual cloves from the bulb and plant them root-side down.
  • Space cloves 4-6 inches apart in well-draining soil.
  • Keep soil moist but not overly wet to prevent rot.

Pro Tip: Spring-planted garlic will produce smaller bulbs, but you can harvest the tender garlic greens early for cooking!

Bright white and perfect garlic cloves.

14. Shallots

  • Start Method: Plant sets directly in the soil
  • Growing Time: 90-120 days

Growing Tips:

  • Plant shallot sets with the pointed tip facing up.
  • Space bulbs 6 inches apart in rows.
  • Keep the area weed-free to prevent competition.

Pro Tip: Shallots multiply underground—one planted bulb will produce multiple at harvest time!


15. Leeks

  • Start Method: Transplant preferred, but can be direct-seeded
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 8-10 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 100-130 days

Growing Tips:

  • Start seeds in deep trays and transplant them when they reach pencil thickness.
  • Hill soil around the stems as they grow for long, white stalks.
  • Keep consistently watered, especially in dry spells.

Pro Tip: If you leave some leeks in the ground over winter, they may regrow in early spring.

Leek stalks picked and resting on a bright white tabletop.

Legumes (Cold-Tolerant, Soil-Enriching, and Prolific Growers)

16. Peas (Snap, Shelling, or Snow)

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 55-70 days

Growing Tips:

  • Plant directly in the soil as soon as it is workable.
  • Provide a trellis or support for climbing varieties.
  • Pick pods regularly to encourage more production.

Pro Tip: Use row covers to protect young seedlings from extreme cold if temperatures drop significantly.

Fresh picked peas against a bright whiite surface. The image is an example of great frost-tolerant crops for your vegetable garden.

17. Fava Beans (Broad Beans)

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 80-90 days

Growing Tips:

  • Sow seeds 1-2 inches deep in well-draining soil.
  • Provide support for taller varieties.
  • Pinch off tops when plants start flowering to encourage pod production.

Pro Tip: Fava beans fix nitrogen in the soil, making them excellent for improving garden beds.

Broad beans or fava beans freshly garden picked resting on a tabletop.

Hardy Herbs (Cold-Resistant and Ideal for Early Planting)

18. Parsley

  • Start Method: Direct-seed or Transplant
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 6-8 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 70-90 days

Growing Tips:

  • Soak seeds in warm water overnight before planting to speed up germination.
  • Keep soil consistently moist for best growth.
  • Harvest outer stems first for continuous production.

Pro Tip: Parsley is biennial, meaning it grows back the following year if left in the ground.

Freshly picked parsley against a bright white tabletop.

19. Cilantro (Coriander)

  • Start Method: Direct-seed
  • Growing Time: 50-60 days

Growing Tips:

  • Direct-seed in well-draining soil for best results.
  • Harvest leaves young for the best flavor.
  • Let some plants go to seed to produce coriander spice.

Pro Tip: Cilantro self-seeds easily—leave a few plants to reseed naturally for a continuous crop.

20. Thyme

  • Start Method: Transplant preferred, but can be direct-seeded
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 6-8 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 75-90 days

Growing Tips:

  • Start seeds indoors or divide established plants for faster growth.
  • Plant in well-drained soil—thyme dislikes wet roots.
  • Prune regularly to keep plants compact.

Pro Tip: Thyme is drought-tolerant and pairs well with vegetables needing less water.


21. Oregano

  • Start Method: Transplant preferred, but can be direct-seeded
  • Start Seedlings Indoors: 6-8 weeks before planting
  • Growing Time: 80-90 days

Growing Tips:

  • Start seeds indoors for best success.
  • Plant in well-drained soil with plenty of sun.
  • Trim regularly to encourage bushy growth.

Pro Tip: Oregano grows well in containers, making it easy to bring indoors if needed.

Closeup of a sprig of oregano.

FAQ About growing Frost-tolerant crops

Even the most cold-hardy crops can face challenges when planted in late winter. Below are answers to common questions and troubleshooting tips to help you succeed.

Q: Can I plant seeds in frozen soil?

❌ No. Seeds need thawed and workable soil. If your ground is frozen, wait until you can easily dig a hole without hitting ice.

Q: How do I know if my soil is “workable”?

✔ Take a handful of soil and squeeze it. If it crumbles, it’s ready. If it forms a sticky mud ball, it’s too wet—wait until it dries out slightly.

Q: What if the temperature drops after I plant?

✔ Most of these crops can handle frost, but to protect young seedlings from an unexpected deep freeze, use row covers, mulch, or cloches.

Q: How early can I start my seeds indoors?

✔ Refer to the “Start Seedlings Indoors” timeline in the guide. Depending on the plant, most seedlings should be started 4-10 weeks before transplanting.

Troubleshooting Common Problems with Frost-tolerant crops

❌ My seeds aren’t germinating—what went wrong?

Possible Causes:

  • Soil too cold – Even cold-tolerant crops need 40-50°F soil temps to germinate. Use floating row covers to warm the soil.
  • Too wet – If soil is soggy, seeds may rot before sprouting. Ensure good drainage before planting.
  • Old seeds – Some frost-tolerant crops (like parsnips) have short seed viability. Use fresh seeds each year.

❌ My seedlings are weak and leggy—why?

Possible Causes:

  • Not enough light – Seedlings need 12-16 hours of intense light daily. Use grow lights if required.
  • Too much heat – If indoor temps are too warm, seedlings may stretch. Keep them between 60-65°F.
  • Crowded seedlings – Thin or transplant before they compete for space.

❌ Our plants are growing but not producing well.

Possible Causes:

  • Too much nitrogen – Excess fertilizer causes lush leaves but small roots or no flowers.
  • Overcrowding – Thin seedlings to prevent competition for nutrients.
  • Too much warmth – Some cool-weather crops (like cilantro) bolt in heat. If temps rise too fast, harvest early.

❌ My young plants got damaged by frost—are they dead?

What to Do:

  • Check the main stem—the plant may recover if it’s still firm.
  • Trim off damaged leaves to encourage new growth.
  • Use row covers or cloches to protect against future cold snaps.

❌ My radishes, beets, or turnips have many greens but tiny roots.

Possible Causes:

  • Too much nitrogen – Reduce high-nitrogen fertilizers and add phosphorus-rich amendments like bone meal.
  • Overcrowding – Thin plants early so they have space to grow.
  • Too much shade – Root crops need full sun for best development.

❌ My spinach or lettuce is bitter—why?

Possible Causes:

  • Bolting (flowering) – Hot weather or long daylight hours trigger bolting. Plant earlier in cold weather and choose slow-bolting varieties.
  • Water stress – Bitter greens often result from irregular watering. Keep soil evenly moist.

Pro Tips for Success with Frost-tolerant crops

Use Cold Frames or Row Covers – Extends the season and helps germinate seeds faster.

Mulch to Retain Moisture – Helps prevent soil from drying out too quickly.

Succession Planting – Plan for harvest like peas and lettuce late spring early summer and add a second harvest of heat-loving plants.

Harden Off Seedlings – Expose them gradually to outdoor temperatures for 5-7 days before transplanting.


Final Thoughts: Start Your Garden Early & Make the Most of the Season

Don’t wait for perfect weather—your growing season starts now! By planting these 21 frost-tolerant crops in late winter, you’ll get a jumpstart on your harvest, extend your growing season, and maximize your garden’s productivity before summer.

With the right timing, a few simple precautions, and a little patience, you can enjoy fresh, homegrown produce weeks (or months) earlier than most gardeners. So get your seeds ready, prep your soil, and start planting!

Closeup of Laura.

Author: Laura Kennedy

Writer & Owner of Little Yellow Wheelbarrow

Laura is a highly skilled gardener and fervent flower enthusiast. Despite her playful battle with plant spacing guidelines, Laura’s work inspires gardeners to create thriving, beautiful spaces that reflect both creativity and sustainability.

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